Photo: Getty Images, GoRunway
I’ve never really understood the urge some adults have to dress like their childhood dolls. Frilly Peter Pan collars and lace trim just don’t do it for me; and even when I was well within the age bracket to dress like I was heading to my First Communion, I didn’t want to.
Recently, though, I’ve noticed a shift. Over the past couple of months, I’ve been itching to incorporate into my wardrobe the exact details that once repelled me. But instead of dressing like a pristinely kept Madame Alexander, I’m taking inspiration from haunted-looking thrift store dolls. You know the ones: eyes glassy and vaguely menacing, their dresses yellowed and tattered, worn down by time. The imperfect, weathered fashions sit in opposition to their purpose as collectibles, meant to be preserved.
I’m not the only one bewitched by their freaky charm: haunted doll fashions have been ever-present in recent seasons. (Lest we forget the bloomer shorts craze that began a couple of years ago.) Chemena Kamali’s Chloé sent tiers of lace and billowing pantaloons down the runway for spring 2025, and Seàn McGirr’s McQueen offered operatic collars and shredded hems that same season. Here in New York, Zoe Gustavia Anna Whelan’s deconstructed styles remind me of a discarded doll left to the elements, while Colleen Allen’s Victorian silhouettes mimic old underpinnings. The look has even hit the mass market: Free People sells a pair of lace-trimmed bloomer pants that serve as a budget-friendly alternative to luxury offerings.